Eunice Paiva’s grave becomes a tourist site after “I’m Still Here”
A tombstone in a little blue chapel in São Paulo’s Araçá Cemetery mentions her fondly: “A role model for her family and for Brazilian democracy.” It stands next to a number of chapels belonging to Italian families, where the lawyer and one of the symbols of the fight against the Brazilian dictatorship and for human rights, Maria Lucrécia Eunice Facciolla Paiva, better known as Eunice Paiva (1929–2018), is buried.
Her story became even more famous after actress Fernanda Torres played her in the film I’m Still Here, directed by Walter Salles. Nominated for best film, best international film, and best actress at this year’s Academy Awards, the film is an adaptation of a book of the same name written by Marcelo Rubens Paiva. In it, the author tells the true story of his family, centered on his mother’s struggle shortly after the disappearance of his father, Congressman Rubens Paiva, who was taken away by police officers in 1971, during the period of military dictatorship in Brazil. Rubens Paiva’s body was never found.
The success of the production sparked even more curiosity about her life and where she was buried, especially after actress Fernanda Torres, who won the Golden Globe for playing Eunice Paiva in the movie, paid a visit to the graveyard.
“The filming of I’m Still Here ended a year ago and I went alone to thank this great Brazilian for the honor of having portrayed her in the film. Thank you, Eunice,” the actress wrote in November last year, posting a photo next to the tombstone on her Instagram profile.
Visits
Guided tours of the Araçá Cemetery—which now include a visit to Eunice Paiva’s grave—have attracted hundreds of visitors. The walks are part of the project O que te assombra? (“What Haunts You?”), which routinely promotes free visits to burial grounds and tombs of historical personalities across São Paulo state.
“I had the idea for the project as an attempt to discuss the concept of haunting. It’s inspired by Gilberto Freire’s book Assombrações do Recife Velho (‘Hauntings of Old Recife’), which draws a parallel between the social and urban development of the city of Recife and haunting stories,” said researcher and lawyer Thiago de Souza.
In an interview with Agência Brasil, he said that these stories inevitably led him to cemeteries, and subsequently to the idea of developing a new project, Saudade e Suas Vozes (“Saudade and its Voices”), which focuses on the Araçá Cemetery. The initiative explores the graveyard as a place of memory, culture, heritage, and stories.
“I never imagined that a cemetery could have so much potential and be such an important instrument for telling stories. I like to say that the cemetery is the best story-telling place. Every individual who took part in building our history rests in a cemetery. They are the great storytellers of our communities and cities,” he added.
The inclusion of Eunice Paiva’s grave in the guided tours of the necropolis happened at the end of last year, shortly after Fernanda Torres’ post, when the researcher discovered that she was buried in Araçá. The decision to include her grave in this visit was motivated by the fact that her story represents not only the struggle for democracy, but also the role of memories and mourning.
“Her story touches on two interesting aspects—the first is memory, the importance of remembering and seeking the truth, just what the search for answers about the whereabouts of Congressman Rubens Paiva meant to her. The second aspect is the importance of mourning, which is something that may not be very noticeable in the story. Eunice’s great quest was to have the right to know what had happened to her husband, who was responsible for his death, and where he was buried,” the researcher pointed out.
In his opinion, it is good to see people’s interest in Eunice Paiva because that leads to reflections on the role of memory and the importance of finding a sense of compassion for people who have suffered great violence.
Araçá Cemetery
Inaugurated in 1897, the Araçá Cemetery was created to tackle the overcrowding of the Consolação Cemetery and the growth of Italian immigration to São Paulo. The name Araçá stems from the old Araçá Road, which was surrounded by a plant of the same name. Today, the road is called Doutor Arnaldo Avenue.
In addition to housing Eunice Paiva’s grave, the Araçá Cemetery is also home to the resting places of other important personalities from Brazil’s history—such as actresses Cacilda Becker and Nair Bello, and businessman Assis Chateaubriand. It also contains the mausoleum of the Military Police and an ossuary where the remains of people murdered by the military dictatorship and buried in the Perus clandestine ditch used to be stored. The site also stands out for its works of art, signed by artists such as Victor Brecheret.
Guided tours of the Araçá Cemetery are free of charge. However, organizers ask visitors to contribute a kilo of food, to be donated to a project that distributes lunchboxes to homeless people. Registrations can be made through @oqueteassombra on Instagram.
